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	<title>Go Light Your World</title>
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	<link>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp</link>
	<description>Let us capture your  your memory with our cameras.  This is our blog...</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Tue, 26 Mar 2013 01:30:48 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<item>
		<title>Multiple exposures&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/03/dfac9-multiple-exposures/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/03/dfac9-multiple-exposures/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Mar 2013 02:28:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>david</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Behind the Scenes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Specialties]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[behind the scenes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[diy]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/?p=1003</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I shot another art show for an the online version of the reality. It also serves as an archive of all the artwork that&#8217;s been shown since the beginning. One of the pieces in the most recent show was this neon piece that&#8217;s close to 5 feet  in width and height. Here is the final image I ended up with after doing three separate masking layers. It was the most challenging piece in this show. The piece was assembled in place in a fairly well lit hallway (both with overhead fluorescents, not all of which can be shut off, and a long wall of full length windows facing east. I wanted to bring out the copper of the supporting structure. Originally, I took an exposure for the blue on the wall (neon tubes behind the copper), another for the tubes themselves and then used a flash to bring out the [...]]]></description>
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		<title>The First Board&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/03/the-first-board/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/03/the-first-board/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Mar 2013 02:29:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>david</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[diy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gear]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[strobe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/?p=986</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Ok, so the blank boards show up. As it turns out, the footprint I chose for the optoisolator was too small for the parts I ordered, which I only discover when I place them next to the board. Doh! That&#8217;s what happens when you don&#8217;t have parts in hand and check them against a full scale print on paper of the board design&#8230; Oh, well, it&#8217;s easily fixed. A search through Digikey turns up different optoisolators that should drop in place without bending anything and just shorting over one pin. Here is the finished first board with a mangled MOC3023 soldered down. It&#8217;s the biggest part on the little green board with 6 legs. This modified 200B gave the light for this photo, bounded off the ceiling in the living room with a wireless Yongnuo RF-603 trigger. There seemed to be some extraneous fires of the strobe but I&#8217;m not sure [...]]]></description>
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		<item>
		<title>Oh Happy Surprise!</title>
		<link>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/03/oh-happy-surprise/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/03/oh-happy-surprise/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 22 Mar 2013 00:23:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>david</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[diy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flash]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gear]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[strobe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/?p=972</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The PCBs for the low voltage adapter for the Norman 200Bs have finally arrived! (See this post for the schematic and layout.) Surprise! Surprise! Surprise! I&#8217;ve never ordered before from BatchPCB.com, but it would seem that if your board is small enough, they&#8217;ll fill out extra panel space with your board and just send it to you when they&#8217;re done. I&#8217;d ordered 4 and got 14 in the mail. Wah hoo! I was expecting to have to order more but now I won&#8217;t have to. The per board cost comes down from over $5 each to about $1.65. Here&#8217;s a photo the pile of finished boards that I can&#8217;t build up until tomorrow:]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Updated Norman 200B low voltage trigger&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/03/updated-norman-200b-low-voltage-trigger/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/03/updated-norman-200b-low-voltage-trigger/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Mar 2013 22:10:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>david</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[diy]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[gear]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/?p=961</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A recent previous post detailed the first and second passes at converting Norman 200B strobe packs to low voltage so as to be compatible with modern cameras. Those were not quite up to snuff because the first pass stole too much voltage to be usable and the second allowed 20mA of current to flow through the camera or trigger it was connected to. After doing some reading about the subject, it would appear that at least for some older cameras, the trigger circuitry used an SCR, in which case the 2nd implementation above would fail because the constant 20mA would keep the SCR latched on. It might also be way too much current for the trigger circuitry to handle. The numbers I recall were 1.5mA max trigger current that decayed to something under 750uA. So, back to the drawing board&#8230; Here&#8217;s what I came up with: U2 is a negative regulator (required because [...]]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>DIY Kubota Panels: Versatile and Portable Walls or Windows&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/02/diy-kubota-panels/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/02/diy-kubota-panels/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Feb 2013 02:26:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>david</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Behind the Scenes]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[on location]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/?p=936</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[During the presentation Kevin Kubota gave on CreativeLive.com several months back, he mentioned DIY scrims he had built that were sized to fitPhotoflex Litepanel covers. He even made a video detailing the construction. So, how could I help myself? I had to make some, but with some enhancements of my own&#8230; Not having any Photoflex panels, I was not constrained to a certain size so kept things simple. I maximized the material usage by cutting all the 3/4&#8243; PVC pipe to 39&#8243; in length. I also used electrical PVC conduit because it was slightly cheaper than the same size plumbing PVC pipe. Instead of using a hack saw like Kevin Kubota, I used a PVC pipe cutter. They are much simpler to use and so much less messy than sawing &#8211; I highly recommend getting one. It&#8217;s definitely worth the money. Seven lengths of pipe are required for each panel. Instead of running [...]]]></description>
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		<item>
		<title>Light Saber &#8211; DIY Saberstrip</title>
		<link>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/02/light-saber-diy-saberstrip/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/02/light-saber-diy-saberstrip/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 03 Feb 2013 06:38:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>david</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Behind the Scenes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[diy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Portraits]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[flash]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gear]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[softbox]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[strip light]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[strobe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[strobist]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/?p=906</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Recently, I came across a nifty light modifier for small battery flashes called the Saberstrip. It&#8217;s a tube with a mount for the flash at one end, and a mirror at the other end, and a long window covered with diffusion fabric. The long linear light source makes a diffuse shadow in one direction. They can be doubled up and oriented as an &#8220;L&#8221; to give a look closer to an umbrella or soft. One big advantage of the Saberstrip is that it&#8217;s not a big sail that&#8217;ll catch the wind out on location. At US$135 plus another 15 for shipping, though, it&#8217;s rather expensive for the hobbyist. There have been some DIY designs posted around the net using 3 and 4 inch PVC pipe. While pipe like that is an obvious choice given the original design, PVC of that size is heavy if it&#8217;s schedule 40 or 80. Additionally, thinner walled [...]]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Moving Vintage Norman 200Bs into the Modern Era&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/02/norman-200b-low-v-mod/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2013/02/norman-200b-low-v-mod/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 02 Feb 2013 04:26:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>david</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[diy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flash]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/?p=865</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[**** UPDATE ***** UPDATE:  NEW DESIGN COMING SOON THAT REDUCES CURRENT IN THE CAMERA/TRIGGER SWITCH AS ~20mA MAY BE TOO HIGH FOR CAMERA INTERNALS. ***************** This post needs to be prefaced with a major disclaimer: Open your Norman 200B at your own risk. The 500V inside is potentially lethal. The author was careless once and accidentally discharged the cap with a meter probe which caused a big char streak in the connector and took a hunk out of the meter probe and one of the head plug pins. Proceed/attempt at your own risk. If you die, break your 200B, or both, I am not responsible. Now that that&#8217;s out of the way, on the to the good stuff. The Norman 200B trigger voltage is on the order of 100V. It was fine for old film cameras with mechanical sync switches. Modern digital cameras don&#8217;t care for such high voltages, so [...]]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Vintage Portable Light: A modern take&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2012/12/vintage-portable-light-a-modern-take/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2012/12/vintage-portable-light-a-modern-take/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Dec 2012 17:38:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>david</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[diy]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/?p=847</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A couple of months back, I saw a Craig&#8217;s List listing for a Norman 200B pack, head and charger. The battery was dead and would not charge but the owner reported that it worked the last time he&#8217;d used it, it worked. I figured that for 200 Watt-seconds, $65 was not too unreasonable to gamble, so I bought it. After purchasing, it was very interesting to note the date codes of the parts on the circuit board. They were all circa 1979. What&#8217;s more, it has the battery positive connected to the case: it was one of those positive ground devices I&#8217;d heard about but had never seen. Very interesting, indeed. When attempting to power it up with a power supply, I had difficulty finding a power supply that would source enough current to get it to anything other than trip the over current and shut off the power supply. [...]]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Sunday morning light tent&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2012/10/sunday-morning-light-tent/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2012/10/sunday-morning-light-tent/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Oct 2012 02:22:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>david</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Behind the Scenes]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[light tent]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/?p=843</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This is was a draft post for the longest time.  Finally getting around to finishing and publishing it&#8230; Jacci made a baby shower invitation for our daughter, Tricia using some stuffed animals and other items. Jacci also tried her hand at stop motion animation while taking the still photo for the invite. Here&#8217;s one of the photos she took in the series: The movie can be seen here: elephant and monkey stop motion-desktop It was early on a Sunday morning when Jacci started trying to set up the shot. She was having some difficulty in getting some white foam core to stand up and stay where she wanted it. I went out into the garage and rounded up some 1/2&#8243; PVC and fittings from an old project. I cut the PVC pipe into 8 equal lengths.  Then using 8 90-degree elbows, the structure below was assembled.  [I'd recently seen a PVC [...]]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
<enclosure url="http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/elephant-and-monkey-stop-motion-desktop.m4v" length="3189572" type="video/mp4" />
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		<title>Mother of all softboxes&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2012/08/mother-of-all-softboxes/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/2012/08/mother-of-all-softboxes/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Aug 2012 18:56:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>david</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[diy]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.sundayschildsnapshots.com/wp/?p=835</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[David Hobby of the Strobist web page posted recently about assembling a large softbox on location using two backdrop stand kits and two extra cross members, hanging rip-stop nylon in black and white to block and diffuse the light where he wanted. In the comments of that post, there were mentions of using EZ-UP canopies in white to the same effect but a little more inexpensively.  Further down in the comments, RocketRick states that buying canopy fittings is cheaper and more flexible than buying a canopy.  As he mentioned, Yuma&#8217;s Bargain Warehouse does indeed seem to have the best prices on the fittings when shipping is also included. That all got me to thinking, since we are planning on having a photo booth at a youth conference next January, getting the canopy hardware could serve more purpose than just an outdoor humongous soft box.  With a good mixture of fittings and half length EMT [...]]]></description>
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